Saturday, January 28, 2012

E. Mishkin: A Review

If you're a London food blogger or foodie, you'll probably have seen a hundred reviews of Mishkin's already. But I'm going to write it anyway, so I don't give a shit. 

Mishkin's, near Covent Garden, the latest in Russell Norman's empire, is preceded by Polpo, Da Polpo, Polpetto and Spuntino (I reviewed it here last year), and is a 'kind of Jewish deli'. It is a pretty good description, but it's also very cool, especially at the moment, with the trend of exposed brickwork and very much 'un-fine' dining. Which isn't a criticism, because ultimately, it does look cool, and a lot of people like it a lot. 


Image from the Mishkin's Website


I went there this week, for dinner. I was lucky I booked when I did as there was a review in the Metro that day (now it's not just a secret that food bloggers and Twitter foodies can smugly keep!) I went in to wait for my friend, and was soon seen and seated (hurrah for booking in Central London!) and given water without asking (tick!).

The menu is pretty straightforward: sandwiches, sides, all-day breakfast and 'supper' items - snacky kind of food. In true Russell Norman style, it was on a piece of lined paper and in a courier new style-font. My friend arrived, apologising profusely, and we ordered. To celebrate my new job she declared that we must celebrate (my arm didn't exactly need twisting) with a bottle of wine. The carafe, the waiter advised, was only a little smaller than the bottle, and was cheaper too ('Definitely living up to the Jewish stereotype, so far). We went for a few things to share: duck hash, beetroot & pickled herring tartare, their trademark Reuben sandwich and a gem and walnut salad, recommended by the casually dressed and friendly waiter.

The duck hash, well, it was a bit.. ducky. I know, I know, what else do you expect? - but it was. We didn't manage to finish it, complete with fried egg on top. Perhaps we shouldn't have attempted it after all of the other food. The beetroot and herring tartare was a little too beetrooty (more herring please!) but was still completely delightful - I just really love herring. The gem and walnut salad was a bit of much needed green but to be frank, pretty ordinary. Pleasant enough though. The crowning glory was the Reuben sandwich. I mean, I know everyone is raving about it but I could eat several of those in one sitting (and they're pretty big). On rye bread, with pastrami, saurkraut and swiss cheese with mustard and gherkin on the side, it was damn good.

Another cafafe (well, it would be rude not to), and we went for the rhubarb fool and the bananas foster (apparently it's a big thing in Australia, according to my companion). The rhubarb fool was pleasant but by that point, was too much. The bananas foster was heavenly - I could have eaten several.

Image from the Mishkin's website.


The bill was about £70 for the two of us which is about average (I still baulked slightly but that's probably just my current financial situation).

All in all, a great meal, friendly staff who're on the ball and one of the best sandwiches I've ever had. And they also supply (credited of course), other local business' products - for example, Big Apple Hotdogs, which I've yet to try but I've heard are amazing, and the salt beef beigel from Brick Lane which I've had from the source and is pretty awesome (both at a decent markup, of course).

I know it's very trendy to sell all this preserved meat like pastrami, corned beef and salt beef which were until recently, very unfashionable and undesirable, but by God, maybe it's the bit of Polish in me, I love it all.

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